Best Feeling Ever

I’m no Pro surfer- heck, I even need someone to tell me which waves to catch every single time. But if there’s one thing that gives me an inexplainable feeling of pure happiness- it’s surfing. It’s not just about being able to stand up- it’s everything before and after that. The fun starts when you gear up, when you hop on board the back of someones motorbike barefoot and feel the wind in your hair as you make your way to the spot. It’s waking up early in the morning to catch the the tide. It’s waxing the board (a lot), or using your arm strength to carry said board across the platform. It’s paddling out and trying to figure out which waves are good and which ones will can kill you (:P). It’s learning new tricks, and trying your best to turn the board or go faster without falling. It’s listening to no one else but your instinct. It’s even wiping out and praying to God that the board doesn’t hit your head- ahh, I miss it everyday! The island life is always a life I’d love coming back to. No hurries, no worries. <3