Last Updated on August 14, 2020 by Paola Diaz
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Think about it.
Without proper cleansing, you’ll massage the gunk all around as you apply your skincare products. Ick!
This is where the Korean double cleansing method comes in.
The 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine
If you haven’t heard about the 10-step Korean skincare routine yet, then it’s either A) you may be living under a rock or B) you’re new to skincare.
This awesome (yet demanding) method reflects the Korean way of cleansing the skin to get that so-called ‘chok chok look’. This look is characterized by even skin tone, hydrated skin, and minimized pores and wrinkles.
At the heart of the skincare routine — and even those of normal ones — is the cleansing step. People may debate about how effective certain ingredients are, but all would agree that maintaining a clean face keeps skin problems away.
What is Double Cleansing?
Double cleansing just means cleansing twice. It is a method popularized by Koreans where two types of cleansers are used. These are also the first steps in the 10-step Korean skincare routine to ensure proper absorption of subsequently applied products during the process.
The first step is to use an oil-cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser. If you’re having a hard time understanding why this should be done, remember Chemistry 101: Like dissolves like.
Only oil-based products are able to effectively dissolve other oil-based products. The same goes for water-based materials.
This has to do with the polarity of the molecules. It’s not hard to see this demonstration in real life. Oil and water don’t mix. So basically, if you wash your face with only a water-based cleanser, you will be leaving out all non-polar things on your skin such as oil, sunscreen, and certain types of makeup.
Step 1: Oil-Based Cleanser
An oil-based cleanser can either come in liquid or solid form. For solids, it can either come in the form of balm or cream, which, in my opinion, is more easily applied compared to the liquid form.
When choosing an oil-based cleanser, you can’t just pick the first oil you see. A lot of plant-based oils are comedogenic, meaning they can clog the pores. For your reference, here is a list of oils and their comedogenic rating.
What It Does
An oil-based cleanser attracts non-polar molecules from your skin that may irritate it. These include excess sebum, sunscreen, and pollutants. Your long-stay makeup can also be oil-based. Note that some of the common oil-based products we use daily can cause discoloration and infection if not removed properly.
Once the cleanser binds to these particles, they are effectively washed off with rinsing.
Oil-based cleansers are also a good way of keeping your skin hydrated. As a bonus, they can also lessen the appearance of wrinkles because of the moisture and nourishment provided.
These types of cleansers contain a lot of fatty oils that plump up the skin while deeply hydrating it.
How to Use Oil-Based Cleansers
Oil-based cleansers are applied when the face is dry. Unlike foam cleansers wherein you still need to lather, these cleansers are used directly on the face.
Don’t be surprised if you end up looking like a mess afterward. It will be slightly gross at first, especially when you see gunk moving around your face.
Your eye shadow will blend with your mascara, and this is totally normal. In fact, this is an indication your cleanser is moving. It’s melting off all the undesirable oil-based materials on your face.
Quick tip: For a list of great waterproof mascaras, check out our article on the best Korean mascaras here.
After massaging it onto the skin, apply a little water afterward and continue massaging. This turns the mixture milky. Finally, remove the cleanser using a gentle washcloth. Some people use water to rinse it off, but I’d recommend a washcloth because it’s more effective.
This video provides a good demonstration as to how you properly use oil-based cleansers.
Some Oil-Based Cleansers You Can Try
This affordable cleanser melts away makeup quickly. What I love about this is it is non-comedogenic and uses gentle plant extracts to cleanse the skin.
It has papaya and cherry extracts that are good sources of Vitamin C and A, respectively. These vitamins help nourish the skin by making it brighter and more hydrated.
Rice water has been used since the Joseon Dynasty in Korea after they discovered that it has great effects on the skin. Today, scientists have found out this is due to the vitamins and amino acids contained in the water.
This Face Shop oil-based cleanser is perfect for those who have oily or combination skin. It does not contain mineral oil and does not cause breakouts or irritation.
This cleansing oil is all about the pores. It contains polyhydroxy acids, or PHAs, that slough off dead cells from the skin. It’s one of the mildest acids available so it’s safe enough for sensitive skin as well.
As you wash off all the oil-based gunk off your face, you’re assured of a gentle exfoliation and declogging of your pores. It also contains Tea tree leaf and Jojoba oils that prevent blackheads and breakouts from forming.
Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser
The next step is to wash your face with a water-based cleanser. These cleansers can be either foaming or non-foaming.
Foaming cleansers are generally more alkaline compared to non-foaming ones. This means they could easily upset your skin compared to the latter. Take this into consideration when choosing a water-based cleanser.
What It Does
Water-based cleansers do the same thing that oil-based cleansers do except that this time, they attract and remove polar molecules from the face. These polar particles include sweat and dirt.
As the final cleansing step, this should ideally remove all the remaining impurities from the skin.
However, although we like the squeaky clean feeling after cleansing, this should not be the goal. The skin should not feel too tight after using a water-based cleanser. Instead, it should feel soft and hydrated.
How to Use
For foaming cleansers, wet the face and apply the product while massaging the skin gently. Basically, it’s just the usual method of washing your face.
For non-foaming cleansers, however, since it is quite awkward to wash the face with little lather, I recommend using a konjac sponge. This helps create a nice lather that can also reduce skin irritation when applied.
Some Water-Based Cleansers You Can Try
This cleanser is infused with white clay components that remove dirt and other impurities from the skin. There are also Korean herbs in this product that remove dead skin cells for a brighter complexion.
This water-based cleanser has a slightly acidic pH, which is what we’re looking for so that our skin is in the right condition after cleansing.
This is a 2-in-1 product that works as a cleanser and gentle exfoliator at the same time. The exfoliation is done by BHA, which is great for those with oily and acne-prone skin. In addition, it also has tea tree oil that helps clear the complexion, giving you a near flawless look.
The low pH of this product ensures the skin is not left to fend for itself after cleansing. This cleanser won’t leave you with a dry and tight face after use. Even though it’s exfoliating, the skin feels nourished after rinse.
Quick note: we made a comprehensive review for the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser.
Like COSRX, this cleanser by Innisfree promises to rebalance your skin’s PH to a subacidic level. The acidic contents make sure that your skin stays moisturized throughout the cleansing process. It also preps the skin to absorb your other skincare products better.
The star ingredient is Blueberry which is rich in many antioxidants to nourish your skin. It gives you a plumper, healthier, and firmer complexion.
Benefits of Double Cleansing
Of all the steps in the 10-step Korean skincare routine, this is the one you should not miss. It’s basic — and necessary.
The most obvious benefit of double cleansing is having clean skin, which is important in keeping it healthy and free from breakouts. Another benefit is attaining that clean canvas for your skincare products and makeup.
Korean cleansers are formulated in a way that not only cleanses the skin but also provides nourishment.
Do you still need to double cleanse even when you don’t wear makeup? The answer is yes.
Is It Possible To Over-Cleanse?
It definitely is! Soaps are designed to strip the skin of its natural moisture and oils that it tends to work harder just to protect itself.
We can’t blame soap manufacturers, though. Soap, by definition, is supposed to be alkaline. This is to ensure the effective removal of dirt and sebum from the skin.
However, this method harms the skin in the long run. The skin can be cleaned thoroughly even without the harshness of alkalinity. As a general rule, you should choose cleansers with a pH below 7.
The skin’s healthy pH is below 5. Choosing cleansers with pH more than 7 will leave the skin feeling tight and clean, but you’ll have to apply more products in order to compensate for the natural goodness you just rinsed off.
The Cleanser for Your Skin Type
As with any other skincare product, take into consideration your skin type when choosing oil-based and water-based cleansers. Of course, the basic rule is to check if you are allergic to any of the ingredients. This is especially true if you have sensitive skin.
If you have dry skin, go for cleansers that are hydrating. They should be able to gently remove unwanted things from your face while keeping most of the natural moisture in. When hunting for an oil-based cleanser, look for jojoba oil as it effectively conditions the skin. Nature Republic Forest Garden Cleansing Oil has this wonderful ingredient.
For those with oily skin, make sure that your cleanser is powerful enough to keep the pores clean while removing excess sebum. Again, don’t aim for the squeaky clean feel no matter how much you like that. The Innisfree Bija Anti-Trouble Gel Cleanser is a good product to try.
Double cleansing is at the heart of the 10-step Korean beauty routine because it is the most essential step in the process. You can forget about expensive serums and ampoules when you can’t even properly cleanse your skin.
Cleansing is basic and is the most important step in any skincare routine. So treat yourself with an oil-based cleanser like the Banila Co Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm Original, followed by a water-based one such as the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser for that fresher, cleaner feel.
Have you tried the double cleansing method yet? Leave a comment below to share your experiences, or if you have any questions, there’s a whole community willing to entertain.